Heartland USA by Rail
June, 2005
Part III: Los Angeles to San Antonio
We spent Wednesday morning walking around downtown LA. We
stopped by what used to be known as the Security Pacific building at 333 So.
Hope Street, where Mo worked from 1975 to 1977. We checked the building
directory, but there was no sign of Scudder Investments still at this
address. The weather was typical Southland - sunny and warm (hot for us),
with little smog (judging by the visibility of the San Gabriels from
downtown). We more or less followed a walking tour route that was
described in the AAA tourbook, ad-libbing a little to make sure we were back to
the hotel and train station in time for our early afternoon departure on the
Sunset Limited.
We knew that this would be the "riskiest" leg of our
Amtrak journey. The Sunset Limited has the dubious honor of Amtrak's worst
on-time performance record. Over the past couple of months that I have
been tracking on-time performance, this train has never arrived
into San Antonio on-time (defined as being within 30 minutes of the published
schedule). Within just a few minutes of our departure from Los Angeles, it
was clear that this ride was going to be no exception to the rule.
To make the 108 miles from Union Station to Palm Springs took seven
and one-half hours! We sat for two hours just outside the Pomona
station waiting out a massive traffic jam of four trains - three UP freights
plus our own. This section of the UP route is single-tracked, and there
are just too many trains for the capacity of the track. I was monitoring
cab communications with my handheld scanner radio. During this pileup, the
exchanges between the four train crews and the Omaha UP dispatcher were getting
pretty tense. The congestion was compounded by incorrect train length
information on a freight that was following us. The dispatcher calculated
that our train and the freight following us would together fit into a siding to
allow two Westbound freights to pass. Unfortunately, the freight train was
considerably longer than the dispatcher's figures, and the two trains would not
fit and still clear the control circuits for the switch at one end of the
siding. Eventually the clog was cleared by manually throwing the switch
whose control circuit was fouled by the extra length of the trains in the
siding.
Fifteen minutes later, we were stuck in another siding for about
90 minutes while five Westbound freights passed us. We ended up in Palm
Springs about five hours late. From there, the jam seemed to clear a
little. We arrived the next morning in Tucson about six hours late, and by
the time we got to El Paso in the late afternoon, we were running about seven
hours late.
Delays of this magnitude were not unexpected, and our plans in
San Antonio won't be affected by an arrival that is late by as much as 10
hours. We arrived in San Antonio at 8:15AM, just under ten hours late, and
were checked into our hotel (just a few blocks from the train station) by
8:30AM. After a quick shower and a chance to regain our land legs, we're
off to explore San Antonio.
From San Antonio, the rest of the train travel gets
easier. On time performance improves drastically on the rest of our
routes, and eventually we'll be back in double-tracked BNSF territory where
on-time is the rule rather than the exception.
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Mo standing outside the BankAmerica building
(used to be the Security Pacific building) at 333 So. Hope Street |
The Westin Bonaventure hotel, just across
from the BankAmerica building. You should be able to recognize this
glass and steel beauty from one of the many Hollywood films that have
used it as a setting. |
The BankAmerica building, from an artsy-craftsy
angle. |
One thing the Southland can do really well is
grow flowers. This display was just outside the Wells Fargo
building. |
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I enjoyed the reflections in this
picture. The skyscrapers have their own particular beauty. |
Outdoor concerts are presented right downtown
at the Wells Fargo plaza, where Mo is sitting in the
amphitheatre. |
The Angels Flight funicular railroad runs
from the Wells Fargo plaza down to the public market. It's currently
undergoing repair. |
Since the Angels Flight isn't currently running, we
hoofed it down and up the stairs. |
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The public market is alive with activity this
morning. You could find just about any ethnic food you'd care for in
here. |
An interesting outdoor sculpture composed of
airplane salvage. This is just outside the MOCA building (Museum of
Contemporary Art). |
This is the new Walt Disney Concert
Hall. This creation is almost blinding on a sunny day! The Dorothy
Chandler Pavilion (home of the Oscars) is just beyond. |
Several fountains and a "greenbelt"
can be found among the several blocks of civic buildings downtown. |
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I don't know how they keep City Hall so clean
and white! |
Ah, yes, a Los Angeles freeway (this is the
Hollywood Freeway). I was not unhappy to drop off the rental car and
call it quits on driving around LA. |
Olvera Street is the official birthplace of
Los Angeles. It is located just a block away from Union Station. |
Our scheduled 1:20 AM arrival into Tucson was
a little late - which makes for much better picture taking. |
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The Sunset Limited consist is 9 cars plus 2
engines - baggage, crew dorm, sleeper, diner, lounge, 2 coaches, then a
coach and sleeper that are switched through to Chicago at San Antonio. |
Arizona |
New Mexico |
West Texas....or maybe I have them mixed
up. No discernible difference as far as I can tell! |
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The tracks run within a few feet of the
Mexico border. You can see the fence marking the border. The
buildings are in Mexico. |
The official border marker seen from the
passing train. |
El Paso station - it was hot here! |
That's me on the phone to the San Antonio
hotel from our stop in El Paso - please don't give our room away, we're
going to be late, but we'll be there! |
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My bride of 30 years (almost) at El Paso
station. |
This is Amtrak's official notice of delays
along this route, found posted on the wall in the El Paso station.
It's something of an understatement, and some of the passengers boarding
in Los Angeles were not aware of this. |
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